Dinner with Johann Henschke
At the start of May, Lay & Wheeler Trading had the pleasure of hosting an unforgettable evening with Johann Henschke of the esteemed Henschke winery in South Australia. Held in the elegant setting of Cornus, one of London’s rising restaurants, the dinner coincided with the 2021 release from Henschke and provided the opportunity to celebrate the winery’s legacy and craftsmanship.
Upon Arrival…
The evening began with a welcome aperitif that set the tone for the event: the 2006 Julius Riesling, a rare treat from Henschke’s Eden Valley vineyards. Named after Julius Henschke, the fifth-generation winemaker and a great botanist, this mature Riesling impressed with its lifted citrus, white flower and beeswax notes. The bottle showcased the variety’s capacity to age beautifully, with a taut minerality and lively acidity that belied its age. An elegant and refreshing wine that was the perfect prelude to the wines to follow.
Guests then took their seats in the private dining room at Cornus for a comprehensive introduction to the estate from Johann, before the first pairing: a vertical tasting of Mount Edelstone Shiraz – covering the 2006, 2013, 2018 and 2021 vintages – accompanied by the rich and textural starter of caramelised potato gnocchi, Turkish morels, Loire Valley white asparagus and toasted hazelnuts.
The 2006 Mount Edelstone, now showing its tertiary character, opened with aromas of dried herbs, leather and blackberry compote, delivering a silky mouthfeel and savoury complexity. The 2013 followed with deep spice, dark fruits and earthy undertones, structured and finely balanced. The 2018 stood out for its concentration and purity: dark cherry, liquorice, and elegant oak framed by precise tannins. Finally, the 2021 Mount Edelstone, released to market that day, was vibrant and aromatic with blueberry, cracked pepper and graphite, and showed a glimpse into the bright future of this celebrated single-vineyard Shiraz.
As we discussed our thoughts and favourites from the first flight, Johann explained the family’s history and the importance of their single-vineyard wines, in anticipation of what was soon to come. Alongside the main course of red wine glazed pork cheek, parmesan polenta, emulsion of peas, mousserons and wild garlic, we were treated to an exceptional range of vintages of what is perhaps the icon of Australian fine wine: Hill of Grace.
Beginning with a bottle now thirty years old, the 1995 Hill of Grace left many in the room in stunned silence. Offering layer upon layer of mature fruit, dried spice, and hints of game, the wine decidedly showed the character of the Hill of Grace site. This signature was echoed in the 2008 Hill of Grace, with its velvety tannins, opulence and complexity and a whole array of fruits and spices. Last, but by no means least, the newly released 2021 Hill of Grace burst onto our palates with the skilled combination of power and freshness. With an incredible life ahead of it, and having seen the impressive ageing potential of the two older vintages, we were delighted to have been able to experience the 2021 Hill of Grace in its infancy and are excited to watch (and taste again) as it develops over time.
The evening concluded with a curated selection of cheeses, accompanied by further discussion and reflection on the wines, the vintages, and the Henschke family’s unwavering commitment to their land and heritage.
“One of Australia’s iconic producers, Henschke has not missed a beat over the years”
Josh Raynolds, Vinous
Johann Henschke’s presence added remarkable insight to the experience—his stories and reflections offered a window into six generations of viticulture, sustainability and winemaking in the Eden and Barossa Valleys. With over 150 years of history, Henschke remains one of Australia’s most revered estates, and this special dinner was a testament to the timeless elegance and singular quality of their wines.
More on Henschke
The Henschke family has made wine at their estate in the Eden Valley since 1868, with fifth-generation winemaker Stephen Henschke taking over in 1979. Together with his viticulturist wife, Prue, they have built upon their inheritance, transforming this traditional producer into one that is celebrated worldwide. Their two flagship single vineyards wines, ‘Hill of Grace’ and ‘Mount Edelstone’, have become two of Australia’s most acclaimed.
Henschke owns three vineyards in the Eden Valley and one in the Adelaide Hills, all of which are farmed in line with biodynamic principles. Prue’s pioneering work in the vineyard cannot be underestimated…