El Enemigo Dinner and Blind Tasting with Adrianna Catena
For the second time in as many years, we were thrilled to be joined by Adrianna Catena earlier this week for an unforgettable Estate Nights dinner. Last time we showcased her family’s winery, Catena Zapata. For this evening, we took a deeper dive on her own project, El Enemigo, and uncovered the delights of high-altitude Cabernet Franc.
Upon Arrival…
Our Private Client Account Mangers, Toby Royle and Harry Wilson, welcomed our guests to the Alligator Terrace at the House of Louie with a glass of the “statuesque” 2018 Wiston Blanc de Blancs. As we sat down at the table, Adrianna opened the evening recounting the origins of El Enemigo. Born from a conversation in London with Alejandro Vigil, El Enemigo was founded on the idea that a winemaker’s fiercest rival is often their own internal struggle — the desire to push harder, refine further, and never stop learning — the winery has evolved into one of Argentina’s most distinctive wine estates. Within just a decade, El Enemigo achieved its first 100-point Parker wine – and has received many more accolades since – helping to establish itself as a reference point for both Cabernet Franc and high-altitude wines in Argentina. Their vineyards, largely ungrafted and many pre-phylloxera, bring an old-world lineage into the dramatic landscapes of the Andes.
As the sharing plate starters of Seabream carpaccio, foie gras terrine and artichoke and baby spinach salad were served, our glasses with filled with the 2021 Gran Enemigo Gualtallary; a vintage that Adrianna described as “exceptional” and is the favourite vintage of winemaker Alejandro Vigil. Exceptionally cold weather, a pinpoint single harvest moment, and a complete absence of oak ageing resulted in a wine with breathtaking purity. Confirmed by Matthew Luczy of The Wine Advocate, “there is no better example of Cabernet Franc’s suitability in the Uco Valley” than the 2021 single vineyard Gran Enemigo Gualtallary, “a match rendered here with incomparable finesse, depth and complexity. 99 Points.” Adrianna explained the challenges of working at extreme altitudes: frost, inaccessibility (including the early years when provisions had to be helicoptered in), and the delicate balance of ripening Cabernet Franc to prevent it tipping into greenness. The 2021, fermented and matured solely in concrete, was a masterclass in precision — and an inspired match for the delicacy of the first course.
“El Enemigo is among a select handful of reference-point producers in Argentina.”
Matthew Luczy, The Wine Advocate
The Blind Tasting…
Prior to the arrival of the main course, our guests were presented with four glasses of red wine. Armed with a pencil and tasting sheet, Adrianna encouraged us to be brave with our impressions, say what we think, and just have fun whilst tasting all four blind wines. The only information given: two wines are Old World and two are New World.
The sharing platters of Cote de Boeuf, Turbot filet and Black Truffle Macaroni were accompanied with focused discussion and lively debate as our guests compared structure, acidity, tannin, and stylistic cues of each wine. Conversations touched on the concepts of old-world vs. new-world, the role of altitude, and the importance of culture and people in any true definition of terroir.
After much deliberation — and a little friendly competition — the bottles were revealed:
2012 El Enemigo, Gran Enemgio Gualtallary
2016 Le Macchiole, Paleo, Bolgheri
2018 Clos Rougeard, Le Clos, Saumur Champigny
2011 El Enemigo, Gran Enemigo Gualtallary
Whilst there were some valiant guesses (and others that were a little off the mark), congratulations was given to one of our guests who hit the nail on the head, suggesting wines 1 and 4 were New World, and honing in on wine 2 as Italian and wine 3 as French!
Adrianna then took the floor to explain the 2011 and 2012 vintages of Gran Enemigo Gualtallary. Both wines showed brilliantly in the blind tasting, with several suggestions that these were the younger two wines out of the line up. Akin to 2021, 2011 was a very cold vintage, resulting in a longer hang time on the vine to allow the grapes to fully mature. On the contrary, 2012 was a more traditional Mendoza vintage with warmer weather. Adrianna also explained how the winemaking has developed at El Enemgio, as back in 2011 and 2012 harvest was done over roughly five different points. However in 2021, following the team’s extensive research and development, harvest was pinpointed to one single moment.
Out of the two older vintages, 2011 is Adrianna’s favourite – not only for this wine, but across the El Enemigo range and further throughout Argentina. She drew comparisons with 2021 which, whilst delicious to drink now, clearly has a long life ahead of it.
At the end of the journey, we remember only one battle: the one we fought against ourselves, the original enemy, the one that defined us.
“I found these firmly among Argentina’s most exciting wines, cementing the variety’s rightful place alongside Malbec as a vehicle for expressing the Uco Valley.”
Matthew Luczy, The Wine Advocate
As plates emptied, Adrianna reflected on the evolution of El Enemigo: the deep soil studies she oversaw at Catena; the use of field blends to capture vineyard identity; the decision not to release certain wines until they approached a decade old; and the ongoing research at the Catena Institute into the ageability of Malbec and Cabernet Franc.
She spoke, too, of the cultural heritage of Argentine wine — from pre-phylloxera history in the Andes to the introduction of Malbec in the 19th century — and of how terroir must always include the people who work the land.
“The recent rise in Argentinian Cabernet Francs has a lot to do with this red from Gualtallary. It demonstrated the potential of Cab Francs from Argentina, especially when grown in high altitude vineyards, a factor that ensures freshness in high end reds.”
Alejandro Iglesias, Decanter
More on El Enemigo
El Enemigo is the personal project of Adrianna Catena and Alejandro Vigil, born from a conversation over dinner in London which soon evolved into one of Argentina’s most distinctive wine estates. The name, which translates to “The Enemy,” reflects their belief that the greatest battles are fought within – against compromise, complacency, and the temptation to settle for anything less than excellence.
Adrianna Catena, the youngest daughter of Nicolas Catena, brings academic rigour and cultural depth to the estate. A historian with degrees from Oxford and Harvard, she blends intellectual curiosity with a deep-rooted understanding of her family’s winemaking legacy. Paired with Alejandro Vigil’s technical brilliance, honed over two decades as Chief Winemaker at Catena Zapata, the partnership is both personal and profoundly ambitious.