Estate Nights | Dinner with Domaine de Chevalier

“Man only reveals what is already there… The terroir dominates everything.”

It’s not every day you get to dine with one of Bordeaux’s top winemaking families. Yet for our third Estate Nights dinner of September, that’s exactly what we did. Joined by Adrien Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier, we shared an evening learning about and tasting his family’s world-renowned wines with some of our clients. Keep reading to discover the insights from the wines we tasted at the Midland Grand Dining Room at the St Pancras International Hotel.

Upon arrival…

When joined by an estate as prestigous as Domaine de Chevalier, whose portfolio includes some of the best red and white wines of the region, it was the appropriate choice to have their Domaine de Chevalier Blanc as an aperitif. The 2019 Blanc welcomed our guests in from the torrential rain to the elegance of the private dinning room at the Midland Grand. The youthfulness and freshness of the wine was so refreshing and yet the potential for ageing was clearly present. Following an introduction to the evening by our Sales Director, James Colacicchi, we took our seats and were introduced to the Domaine by Adrien.

As Adrien spoke, the Domaine de Chevalier Blanc 2016 was poured and we were served comté gougeres with pickled walnuts and warm bread. The estate, now in its 43rd year under Bernard family managment – a feat unmatched by any other in Bordeaux – is lovingly referred to as a ‘secret garden’ with a “river of vineyards” running through the Graves appellation. Their global reputation has been built on the ageability of their wines, and the 2016 Blanc is no exception; even though the wine is coming into its 9th year, it remains in perfect condition with beautiful acidity and freshness combined with some more exotic fruits notes. Accompanied by the various starters of grezzina courgette with burrata, pâté en croute and crab on toast with elderflower & shellfish sauce, the evening was off to a strong start.

We were regailed with the history of the Domaine and the influence of Adrien’s father, Olivier; his regular cycles through the estate’s vineyards and his intimate knowledge of each plot is integral to the success of each harvest. As Domaine de Chevalier continues to manually harvest all its organic vineyards, understanding the nuances and timings at every site is cruicial – and as a result, Olivier has been the key to the successes of the Bernard family’s 42 (soon to be 43) vintages here. With our main courses – Sirloin with sauce au poivre, roasted cod with Champagne and white bean cassoulet, or watercress and pea risotto with confit girolles – we tasted Domaine de Chevalier 2000 and 2006 side by side. Adrien explained that the 2000 vintage is one of the first to provide evidence of his father’s work (notably the replanting programme undetaken from 1986), and whilst somewhat tertiary on the nose the wine still shows freshness of fruit and potential for further ageing. In the other glass, the 2006, which contains some Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, has a wonderful pine and cigar box note – that Adrien attributes to the forest surrounding these vineyards.

When hosting an Estate Nights evening celebrating exceptional French produce, it would be misjudged not to offer a cheese course. As such, the restaurant’s selection of French and British cheeses were served before our puddings (chocolate mousse, baba au rhum or plum soufflé). These were joined by our final Domaine de Chevalier wine of the evening: the 2016 vintage. Balance and elegance combined for a fabulous last glass for which we cannot thank Adrien and the Domaine enough.

``It is the quality of the harvest that marks the success of a great wine``

About Domaine de Chevalier

Domaine de Chevalier, based in Pessac-Leognan, Graves, is one of the leading estates in the area and is known for producing both red and white wines of high quality. The estate takes its name from the Gascon word for knight in homage to a pilgrim trail on the property used in the 12^th – 14^th centuries. Archives show that vines have been on the estate since the 17^th Century, which has passed through only three families since 1865. The Bernard family acquired the estate in 1983 and Olivier Bernard, aged only 23, was put in charge. Olivier made some major improvements at the Chateau, including renovating the winery and expanding the vineyards. Today, Olivier and Anne Bernard are joined at Domaine de Chevalier by their two sons, Adrien and Hugo, and are assisted by consultant oenologist Stephane Derenoncourt.

The vast majority of the 40 hectares Domaine de Chevalier has under vine are dedicated to Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, whilst just 5 hectares are planted with Sauvignon Blanc and some Semillon. Planted at a density of 10,000 vines per hectare, this far exceeds the appellation average of 6,500 per hectare. The high density creates greater competition between the vines and results in a low yield of high quality. The terroir is made up of thick gravel and sand, with a subsoil of clay. Domaine de Chevalier use 100% sustainable farming methods; only organic fertilisers are used, harvests are all done by hand and each parcel is vinified separately to ensure its individual character. Vinification takes place in a mixture of cement vats, French oak barrels and stainless steel tanks. Their Grand Vin is aged in 40-75% new French oak for between 18 and 22 months.